by ALANA REYES
The fashion world exploded in a frenzy the past few weeks with runway shows across the fashion capitals of the world–New York, London, Milan and Paris–showcasing new autumn and winter 2023 collections.
With tens of thousands of looks on the runway, here is a snapshot into the most memorable moments, cameos and pieces from this season’s jam-packed showcases on the catwalks.
A Tribute to Vivienne Westwood
VOGUE UK
London Fashion Week opened with a memorial honoring the “Grand Dame of Punk” before the event began Feb. 17 at Southwark Cathedral. Westwood, whose radical, nonconforming fashion shaped youth subculture forever, died at 81 in December. World fashion icons attended the tribute, including Marc Jacobs, who debuted his own AW23 collection two weeks earlier in New York … a direct homage to the late trailblazer. Statement pearls and voluptuous bustiers replicated the ever-so-recognizable Westwood-ian silhouettes accentuating female form.
Star-heavy at the Art of Genius
MONCLER
Inside London Olympia in the midst of the week, Italian luxury brand Moncler promoted its Genius project in a brand-encapsulating party of giant immersive cubes. Each represented a different “co-created” capsule repped by big names including Jay-Z, Rick Owens, Mercedes-Benz and more. More than 10,000 people attended the celebration of collaboration, which included a live performance by Alicia Keys, debuting her ‘90s streetwear-inspired collection; a “glamping” concept in the Art of Terrain installation showcasing the functionality of the Moncler x Pharrell Williams line, with cute LOVOT robots also donning the mini-luxury outerwear.
Star-heavy at the Art of Genius
VOGUE UK
Diesel opened Milan Fashion Week strong with a sex-positive spectacle, featuring a mountain of 200,000 scarlet Durex x Diesel condom boxes surrounding the AW23 collection. Y2K tones shined in creative director Glenn Marten’s use of low-rise denim, moto jackets and acid wash, and the line’s bawdy theme lingered in teeth and lip prints. Peek into the audience and you’ll find celebrity appearances by the likes of Julia Fox and the cast of The White Lotus, including Haley Lu Richardson and Jennifer Coolidge. Look closer and you might have been surprised to realize that Coolidge was actually an imposter: drag artist Alexis Stone, who stunted a metallic look by the label and face prosthetics to imitate Coolidge.
Ditch the Trousers
VOGUE
This trend wasn’t the only unconventional style that walked off the runway at NYFW, but it certainly will be one to make it out of the high-fashion world. New York said farewell to the pants in numerous collections, a trend popularized by fashion icon Kendall Jenner this winter. Labels like Christian Siriano, Prabal Gurung and Puppets and Puppets replaced bottom garments with sheer tights, while Dion Lee and Maisie Wilen ditched them altogether. Bare legs traversed the catwalk a brief or two peeking out.
Return of Balenciaga
ELLE
Balenciaga arrived at Paris Fashion Week in the label’s first public appearance since last year’s controversial campaign. The brand came under fire in Nov. 2022 due to ads allegedly condoning child exploitation. For all those biting their nails for Balenciaga’s re-emergence, creative director Demma streamlined the marque’s typical trademarks with latex masks, sneakers and celebrity cameos nowhere to be found.
The Mainsheet 